Updated November 10, 2026
No. DFW Stone & Concrete is a quoting and scheduling service. The pages help you choose a pattern, finish, stone or slab spec; when you ask for a quote, your request goes to one independent, insured North Texas contractor who prices the job and does the work.
Stamped, colored, stained and exposed-aggregate concrete, flagstone and natural stone, pool decks and coping, the hardscape for outdoor kitchens and fire features, and shop, barn, RV, boat and garage slabs, in eight DFW counties.
No. A price without the pattern, the stone, the slab spec and the lot is a guess. We publish the spec and the sources, and the quote carries the number.
The pattern or stone, the color method and sealer, and under them the thickness, steel, base, joints and any vapor retarder or edge detail, each on its own line, with dates for the pour, the seal and the first use.
Dallas, Tarrant, Collin, Denton, Rockwall, Ellis, Johnson and Parker. Each county page lists who permits work outside city limits, where the parcel records are and what the ground does, with a source for each fact.
An independent, insured North Texas contractor. The certificate of insurance, the written quote and lien releases come from that contractor.
Often, if the layout is planned so the saw cut or tooled joint falls in a grout line. Ashlar, plank and brick patterns take it well; cobblestone and fieldstone less so. Ask for the joint layout on the sketch.
Sealed, textured concrete can be slick when wet, especially a high-gloss sealer. A grit additive in the sealer is the usual fix and should be on the quote for a pool deck.
Not the slab itself. A sound slab can sometimes take a stamped overlay; otherwise the choices are stain, dye or a new pour. We look first.
Two is common: a field pattern and a border in a second texture or a plain band. More than that gets busy and adds layout time at the edges.
Close, not exact. Integral color shifts with the mix and water; acid stain is different on every slab by nature. Approve a sample on your concrete, not a chip.
Integral pigment and color hardener are iron-oxide and hold up in sun. Acid stain is fade-resistant. Dyes fade or darken outdoors and are not used on exterior work here.
Yes, with an acid or water-based stain after cleaning and testing. Integral color and hardener are only for new pours.
Yes. The usual route is a base color plus a darker release on stamped work, or a stain applied in layers on a cured slab.
Smaller, rounded pebble exposed shallow is comfortable; large crushed stone exposed deep is not. For a pool surround ask for a small rounded aggregate and shallow exposure.
With a seeded finish, yes. With a monolithic mix you choose from what the ready-mix plant batches.
Medium, pulled across the slope. Coarse is for ramps and steep approaches.
It is not required but it is usual; it keeps the stone from loosening and keeps the color.
Dry-laid if you want flexibility on clay and the ability to relay a stone; mortared if you want a solid, even surface, especially over an existing slab or at a door.
Polymeric sand sets when wetted and limits weeds in dry-laid joints. Mortar or grout joints do not grow weeds but can crack with slab movement.
One to three inches for pavers; thicker stone is steadier on a dry-laid base, thinner is fine in mortar.
Yes, mortar-set, if the slab is sound and drains. That is one of the common uses of the mortared method.
Light colors in any finish. A pale integral color or hardener with a matte sealer stays cooler than a dark stamped slab.
With a slip additive in a matte or satin sealer, yes. Without one, a sealed stamp can be slick when wet.
Usually. The deck is saw-cut at the coping or the beam and re-poured; the coping and the beam are the pool builder's domain.
Either the pool builder or the deck crew, depending on the sequence. The quote should say which and when.
No. We build the pad, base and walls; the appliance, gas, electrical and countertop trades do their part. We coordinate the sleeves and the sequence.
Thicker than a patio. One manufacturer's manual calls for an 8-inch reinforced pad over 6 inches of compacted stone. Follow the manual for your unit.
A light gas kit sometimes can if the slab is sound and the gas line can be run; a masonry fireplace needs its own pad. We check the slab first.
Often, for the gas and electrical, and sometimes as an accessory structure. Frisco, for example, requires a building permit for all accessory structures. Verify with your city.
Four inches nominal for storage and light vehicles, six where heavy equipment parks, with the edge detail from the building drawing. Spend first on the pad.
If the inside will be conditioned, floored or used to store things that cannot get damp, yes: at least 6 mil by code, 10 to 15 mil Class A in practice, directly under the slab.
Usually the concrete crew, to the building supplier's bolt plan, before the pour. The quote should say so and name the plan.
It depends on the county. Collin and Ellis list barns and shops among projects that need a development permit; Tarrant and Parker issue no building permits; others permit development generally. See the county pages.
Five to six inches with thickened edges and rebar on chairs. Four inches is a car spec.
It can, but it is not what we quote; a gravel pad ruts under a parked coach on clay and is a different trade.
Yes, slightly, away from the house and the garage, so water does not sit under a parked vehicle.
The approach at the street almost always; the pad itself depends on the city and the HOA. Verify both before the layout is set.
Pattern, color method, sealer, stone and joint, or field thickness, edge, steel, base and membrane: one independent, insured North Texas contractor looks at the lot and writes it all down with dates.
Residential and acreage, in eight DFW counties. No price on this site, because the lot and the drawing decide the price.
One independent, insured North Texas contractor will call or text within one business day to set a time to look at it. You get a written quote with the pattern, color, stone and slab spec on it.